If you’re a man/woman who wants a knife that can be trusted over time and can be used again to get the job done.You don’t want a knife for only cutting,strapping,rigging or fighting.No,You want a knife to do all that and more so then what you need is a tactical knife.
The question that is often asked is “What makes a tactical knife tactical?.”Well a concise definition of what a Tactical knife is might be: An edged tool to be used in a multi mission Tactical Role. The modern Tactical Knife is designed for a broader range of uses than just as a bayonet or as a fighting knife. Tactical knives are designed for maximum versatility. These knives can be used to cut rope to save trapped people to warding off an attacker in a self-defense situation.
Tactical knives are useful in many different situations,especially if you are in the military. Since you are reading this you are someone who plans ahead and you don’t want just a tactical knife,you want the best tactical knife that you know can get the job done. The analysis of the tactical knives in the interactive chart below that follows will help you decide what the best tactical knife is for you.
We all have our personal preferences on what makes a good knife to go camping or hiking with or in some cases fighting on the battlefield, but in an extreme situation you want the absolute best tactical knife possible, and so we’re here to help.
Tactical Knife Comparison Table [table_press]
The knives included on this chart don’t even begin to show all the knives that are offered but what it does show are the top tactical knives selected based on our strict requirements. There are so many different models on the market that there is no way that we could have listed everything. However, we have included the top knives for every price range and from a variety of quality manufacturers.
Best Tactical Knife 2018 Reviews
#1 SOG Seal Pup Elite Tactical Knife Review
The web is right now loaded with SOG Seal Pup Elite review articles because of its extreme popularity .The Seal Pup Elite is a change over past models and is particularly intended for substantial utilization. It is modeled after the same configuration utilized by the US Navy Seals which makes it a top of the class knife. Aside from being amazingly sharp, the SOG Seal Pup Elite includes a wide cluster of characteristics.
A little something about the brand
SOG is a leading producer of great tactical knives was formed in the year 1986. The first engineer based the blade’s configuration from the blades utilized by an extraordinary operations unit of the US military, MACV-SOG. The unit’s name has been adjusted to what is referred to today as one of the top producers of tactical blades.
Main Features of the blade
Inconceivably sharp – the cutting edge is sharp, far more sharp than the standard. This could be a great thing or a terrible thing, contingent upon how you decide to utilize your knife. Since its sharp, you just need to utilize light pressure to get your job done. In the event that you just need to make a little incision, its essential to handle this blade appropriately to get the result you need. Nonetheless, for outdoor tasks like cutting rope, wood, or meat, this blade figures out how to perform flawlessly.
Enduring edge – the sharpened steel isn’t simply sharp; it remains so even after many repeated uses of the blade. It figures out how to stay this sharp even after being used to cut many different hard and soft materials like rope, elastic, wood, and more.
Rust-safe – the edge could be dunked in salt water for a long time and it still wouldn’t experience the ill effects of rust. This is doubtlessly a critical feature for a survival blade, recognizing how regularly it might be exposed to the elements. The sharpness of the sharpened steel remains in place even after exposure.
Solid Tip – The tip of the sharpened steel is normally the most powerless and severs easily. This isn’t the situation for the SOG Seal Pup Elite. The tip might be utilized for different needs, for example, opening jars without the fear of severing it.
Great handle – the SOG Seal Pup Elite’s handle is a bit longer than that of an ordinary tactical knife. It offers a firm grasp, permitting a huge part of the hand to blanket the length of the handle. It additionally has deeper grooves for the fingers which allows for a firmer hold.
Light weight – this might be a great thing or a terrible thing, contingent upon how you like your knife to be. The SOG Seal Pup Elite is unquestionably lighter than most in spite of the fact that it is well balanced. Clients who need a lighter pack for outdoors will discover this as superb feature. The individuals who favor something with additional force, however, may search for a heavier blade from SOG.
Nylon sheath – Their are mixed reviews on the use of a nylon sheath. Essentially, nylon offers incredible security for the blade, keeping it sheltered and in place when not being used. The nylon sheath additionally has extra space for other little materials like a lighter or a butterfly knife.
User reviews on the SOG Seal Pup Elite
Reviews for this item from different sources have likewise been for the most part positive with numerous noting the unique improvment over the original Seal Pup. Survival blade discussions have noted the more drawn out spine grate which might be utilized for can opening or to rest your thumb in. The new shape of the knife additionally makes it notable without decreasing the advantage of it.
With everything taken into account, the SOG Seal Pup Elite scores a high 4.5 stars out of 5. The main thing against this item is the nylon sheath which a few clients didn’t like and traded for something else. Luckily, its not difficult to discover blade sheaths online that might fit this edge so that is really not a problem.
#2 Kershaw Ken Onion Tactical Blur Folding Knife Review
Pros: The blur’s opens quickly and easily because of its SpeedSafe torsion bar system, which also allows for one handed opening. It has an excellent grip even in wet conditions because of thin rubber inserts on the handle. The blade strength is superb and stays sharp even after a lot of abuse.
Cons: The thumb button is a little small but for the vast majority of users it will be alright. The pocket clip is a little tight making it sometimes harder to pull out from your pocket.
In Depth review of the Kershaw Ken onion Tactical Blur Knife
The man behind the blade
Let’s start off with a little introduction about the man behind the blade. The man makes the knife and not the other way around. A master of his trade, Ken Onion designed the Kershaw Blur Tactical Knife. He is one of the most sought out after custom knife maker in the industry. He has made custom knives that are found in the pockets of many collectors as well as in the pockets of his customers. Currently he works at Kershaw designing a selection of knives for them. He is directly involved throughout the design and manufacturing process to ensure that each knife that is made meets his high standards. This one of the many knives he has made that features the patented speed safe torsion bar system.
This sleek black tactical knife comes Speed Safe equipped. This means that it has a one handed release for quick and safe opening. It lets users deploy the blade with the left or right hand .This is useful during sporting and work situations where opening the knife one handed is safer and easier, such as when fishing, hunting or when the other hand is simply occupied. Plus in an emergency chances are that you do not have both hands free so this feature will come in handy.
A little information on the blade
The blade is made of high quality Sandvik 14C28N stainless steel blade that offer high tensile strength and corrosion resistance so that you can be sure it last through many uses. The last thing you would want is for your knife is to break when you need it.
The handle and casing itself are made from anodized aluminum to give you a solid frame and grip that you need to hold your knife safely. The handle features advanced materials that are designed to prove a secure grip every time even under extreme conditions. It features a Trac-tec grip tape inserts that provide the user with extra traction to keep the knife securely in your hand.
Best Tactical Knife 2018 – Ultimate Buying Guide
Features to look for in a Tactical Knife
The main purpose of our tactical knife is to be used for self-defense and in survival situations. This means we want to be was to carry it around with us every day. A folding tactical knife is preferred. Nowadays the word “tactical” seems to be thrown around all the time with knives it is hard to know which one is actually the best knife. However by keeping some important aspects of the knife in mind, you can find a perfect knife for yourself.
A good handle is essential for a knife because after all you are holding the knife there. In a survival or self-defense situation you don’t want it to break when you apply too much force. It must feel comfortable when you use it and handle it under stress. There must be no pinch points, sharp corners or unnatural feel to the handle. It must feel that way in both a forward grip (blade coming out of the top of your closed fist) and in a reverse grip (blade coming out the bottom of your closed fist).
Watch out for over-pronounced finger grooves which will force your hand into a predetermined position.
2. Blade Material
Knives usually come in two types of steel which are stainless steel and carbon. The main difference being that stain less steel has more chromium than carbon steel.
- Stainless Steel-The benefit of the stainless steel in knives it that it is more resistant to wear and tear compared to carbon blades.IT is also resistant to rust and water damage and they are easy to sharpen.
- Carbon-Carbon blades on the other hand or tougher than stainless steel, but they are highly vulnerable to rust damage. They are also more difficult to sharpen but they don’t dull nearly as easily as stainless steel.
You need to have a good grip to prevent the knife from slipping from your hands at the time when you really need it. There are three main types of grips and those or textured/checkered handles, rubber grips and cord.
- Textured or checkered handles provide you with a good grip and are the most durable option since they are crafted into the handle instead of being attached to it.
- Rubber grips can provide you with a better traction than textured/checkered handle but rubber grips or easily damaged. This is because it is attached to handle instead of being crafted into handle which means it can pop off.
- Cord allows you to have a good grip in wet conditions unlike rubber which gets make sit more slippery. There is also an added benefit of having extra cord stored on your knife if you ever need during an extreme survival situation.
Tactical knives come in a wide range of shapes and weights. A smaller knife is almost weightless, while the larger knives can weigh more than half a pound.To summarize, the weight of the knife is directly proportional to its size.
The weight of the knife is greatly dependent on the weight of its blade. You would choose a lighter blade for day to day tasks and a heavier one for more intense tasks. This means that you have to choose your knife on based on what you want to use it for.
Tactical knives are available in many different sizes and it depends upon what kind of blade you are looking for. Most people prefer EDC (Everyday Carry) knives so that they can fit easily in their pockets and purses.You might have seen movies,actors carrying large knives, but in reality, people do not prefer big knives to walk around with.
Knives with small blades are generally used for regular tasks like paring, skinning or even for self-defense. The most important factor that one should worry about when purchasing folding knife is about the quality of the knife hinge in the locking mechanism.
On the other hand, A fixed blade knife may be larger in size but it is more likely that it will last longer than a folding knife. So depending on why you want a tactical knife, you need to select the right size for the best tactical knife to fit your purpose.
Differences between a tactical knife and a fighting/combat knife
The modern Tactical Knife is designed for a wider range of tasks than a fighting or bayonet knife. A good example is the ASEK (Aircrew Survival Egress Knife) system that has been recently introduced to the community. These knives may be used for emergency escape from a downed aircraft using the multi-tools and glass breakers included with these knives.
They can also perform other Survival-Escape-Resistance- Evasion (S.E.R.E.) tasks. This certification is especially useful for Search & Rescue personnel to assist in extrications from vehicles and other complex rescue missions. The A.S.E.K. and S.E.R.E system combined is the very definition of a tactical knife. Tactical knives are designed for maximum usability. When you hear Tactical, think multi-mission!
On the other hand,combat/fighting knives are designed to inflict a lethal injury in a fight between two or more individuals at very short range (grappling distance).They were designed primarily for personal or hand to hand combat situations.This single focus is the main difference between a tactical and a fighting/combat knife.
Types of Knife Blade Designs
The profile of a knife can tell us a lot about a blade’s specific strengths and can also give information about culture, utility and history of the knife you carry.There are many different knife blade designs being used and made in the knife industry and I have included excerpts on the major type of knife blades.
9 Most Popular Knife Blade Designs:
#1 Trailing Point Blade
A trailing point blade has a large curved edge that curves upward to meet the edge which forms the tip of the blade. The name “trailing point” comes because the tip is founder higher than the handle. The curve of this blade allows for greater surface area of the edge (called a ‘belly’) which aids in slicing, slashing and making long, even cuts. The trailing point blades provides a large surface area (“belly”) and is optimized for skinning or slicing. This type of blade is most commonly found on fillet and slashing knives. Its large surface area combined with its skinny tip makes it ideal for cutting fish and other small wild life.
#2 Clip Point Blade
A clip point blade is one of the most popular blade types in use today. The unsharpened edge of the knife runs straight from the handle and stops about halfway up the knife. The “clipped” section of the blade can be either concave or straight and may even possess a false edge on the spine which can be sharpened. After it curves and continues to the end of the knife. This area is referred to the “clip” and it can be either straight or curved. This blade profile forms a much finer, needle like tip to the blade which in turn makes it perfect for cutting/slicing or piercing in tight spots. Clip point blades are very popular and can be found on a range of knives with large appearances on pocket knives and fixed blade knives with a specific popularity on bowie knives. A great example of a clip point blade is the American Bowie.
#3 Drop Point Blades
This type of blade is also very widely used in the knife industry. A drop point blade has a convex curve to the spine of the knife as it approaches the tip of the blade. In other words, the spine of the blade starts to “drop” towards the tip of the blade where it meets the curve of the belly (edge) of the blade to form the tip. The benefit of the drop point blade profile creates a blade with a hardened tip that is easy to direct when piercing or cutting. Ideal for everyday carry purpose and simple tasks. The drop point blade type is very popular and used on a wide variety of pocket and fixed blade knives. Chef Knives and the popular Swiss army knife feature the drop point blade design.
#4 Spear Point Blade
A spear point blade is a symmetrically pointed blade with a tip that is directly in line with the center of the blade’s axis. A spear point blade is generally made with double edges and is primarily used for piercing and is considered a thrusting weapon known as a dagger. Many modifications have been designed throughout the years which have produced a variety of single and double edge spear point blades, but alas the design is generally not practical for everyday carry and is instead used on tactical and combat/fighting knives.
#5 Needle Point Blade
The needle point blade is a variation of the spear point blade but instead the symmetrical blade tapers significantly to form a needle like tip. Some examples of needle point blades include the Arkansas Toothpick and stilettos.
#6 Spey Point Blade
A spey point blade is a straight edge blade with a sudden, defined curve near the very tip of the blade. The core of the knife is mostly straight, but near the tip of the blade the spine angles downward quickly to meet the edge and forms the tip of the blade. This makes the tip of the blade to be slightly obtuse which in turn makes it unlikely for you to pierce accidentally when doing fine work. The spey point blade was originally used for speying animals but has become more popular in trapper style knives for dressing and skinning animals due to the muted tip on the blade.
#7 Tanto Blade
This type of blade follows the tradition of Japanese swords and daggers. It is a tanto style blade which is also sometimes referred to as a chisel point blade .It is a single edge blade with a straight spine and a primarily straight edge until it approaches close to the tip of the blade where the edge angles upward to meet the spine at a slightly convex angle. This produces a very strong tip to the blade due to the blade thickness present at the tip, but this slightly decreases its effectiveness for use in piercing. One downside of this type of blade is that they can be difficult to sharpen due to the angle presented at the tip of the blade.
#8 Sheepsfoot Blade
Sheepsfoot blades have a completely straight edge with a spine that convenes down to form the tip of the blade. This design produces a very safe knife with nothing to actually to pierce with. This blade was originally made to trim the hooves on sheep, hence the name. Now the sheepsfoot blade is commonly used for fine work such as woodcarving or even electrical work. Sheepsfoot blades also have a long history of being used on ships to cut ropes because it reduces the chance of accidently stabbing yourself when the ship rocks. This blade is the perfect blade type for teaching wood carving, knife skills for children/newbies and for knife sharpening .
#9 Hawkbill Blade
A hawkbill style blade is simply a blade that has a concave cutting edge and a claw like shape. These blades are ideal for cutting and carving, especially for long cuts like when installing linoleum or carpet. The shape of the blade and cutting edge allows you to grab material easily with the hawkbill and greatly reduces the risk of accidently stabbing yourself. In the past, they have been used as a slashing weapon in eastern cultures. The Hawkbill has now found its resurrection with it being now used as a defensive tool with modern tactical/fighting knives.
Although there are many, many different knife blade designs out there today, these nine blade types cover the most common blade profile types you will find on the market today. These classic profiles are utilized worldwide and their uses greatly depend on the wielder of the knife. I suggest that you find what knife feels the most comfortable for you and fulfills your purposes. The knife you carry is a personal decision and so only you can determine what blade type you prefer. Stay an Edge above the Rest!
How to take care of your knife
You have probably heard of the old saying “A dull knife is a dangerous knife”. Well I would like to introduce you to “A dirty knife is a dangerous knife. “Exposure to gritty materials or salt water can lead to permanent damage of your blade. If you have a tactical folding knife then you have one more thing to worry about:Pocket Lint.
Pocket lint can affect the performance of the pivot and locking areas of your knife hence making the knife slower and more difficult to open. For these reasons, It is a good idea to perform regular maintenance on your knife.I normally clean and lubricate my knife at least once a month. This also gives you the opportunity to inspect the internals of your knife to make sure that there is no corrosion or loose screws which can prove to be very dangerous.
Step 1 – Cleaning
You should start off with the removing the pocket lint on the pivot of the knife and the locking surfaces. To remove light pocket lint you could use a toothpick, screwdriver, or other probe to remove it.
Then it is on to washing the knife. Well first you can start out with the blade of the knife and work your way down to the pivot mechanism. If you have sand or grit on the blade then wash it with warm, soapy water using a bristle(an old toothbrush is a good choice).You are not limited to only the blade. Work your way down the knife and don’t worry about wetting the internals of the knife. Once you rinse the knife properly you will have no problem.
If you knife still has grime or dirt stuck to it then you can try placing your knife in a bowl of warm water to try and loosen the grime. One word of caution is that if your knife is made of natural materials (wood, abalone, or mother-of-pearl) then you shouldn’t leave your knife in boiling water for too long.After you take it out from the warm water you can trying the probing method to remove and final grime and then try washing it again.
This method should remove even the toughest of residue. Before moving on to the next step be sure to wipe the excess water off the knife and leave it to air dry for at least 15 minutes.
Note: Step 2 and Step 3 only apply if you have a folding knife.
Step 2 – Picking a Lubricant
Since your knife has a moving system it needs to be lubricated, especially the pivot, locking surfaces, or slides. There are different types of lubricants that you can use but the most popular one are petroleum based wet lubricants’ would recommend you check out the Sentry Solutions Tuff Glide or Benchmade BlueLube.
You can also try out a dry lubricant with one benefit being that they attract less pocket lint ,meaning you have to clean your knife pivot mechanisms less. This typically come either as an aerosol can or as a grease tube, whcih will dry on the surfaceof the leaving a protective, lubricating film. Don’t apply too much lubricant exactly at the pivot.. Now on to the last and final step.
Step 3 – Applying the lubricant
Try and remember this when applying the lubricant: “A little goes a long way. “Extend the knife and apply two drops of oil (or a light spray if using a dry lubricant) to your pivot and cycling the blade (opening and closing repeatedly) to work the lubricant in. With lockback or midblock knives, you will want to target the tang of the blade where it meets the lockbar. With liner locks such as the CRKT, you can apply your lubricant on the underside, again making sure to get the locking faces and working it into the pivot.
You are trying to use just enough lubricant to spread throughout the target area without letting it leak on to the handle or blade of the knife. Remember that if you use excessive wet lubricant then there will be more pocket lint attracted and that means you will have to clean your knife more often.You might also want to consider applying a preventative coat of lubricant on your blade itself. Wipe out all the excess oil and your knife is ready to go.
How to throw a Knife and Stick it Every Time
When I first heard about ‘knife throwing’ as a sport, I was really surprised at how such a simple task be termed as a separate sport altogether. One day, I asked my friend, who is a pro in knife throwing, “how hard can knife throwing be? All one needs to do is take the knife, aim and throw it with all the power towards the target”? In the next few minutes, I was proved completely wrong when my friend handed over me the knife and asked me to try it for myself.
What is Knife Throwing?
Knife throwing can be termed as a sport or just an entertaining activity with one person throwing knives on a specified target from a set distance. No matter how uncomplicated and straightforward it might seem, knife throwing is a skill in itself which takes into account various factors such as speed, accuracy, distance, number of rotations and placement of body. Knife throwing has become a popular sport especially in USA and UK where people have formed groups to hold competitions and events in addition to sharing knowledge, comparing performances and enjoying the overall sociable atmosphere.
Types of Knives:
There are basically three different types of knives that can be used:
- Handle-heavy, where the greater part of knife comprises of handle rather than of the blade, as shown in the image below:
- Blade-heavy, where the greater part of knife comprises of blade rather than the handle, as shown in the image below:
- Balanced, where the ratio of handle to blade is exactly equal in the knife.
Though most of the pros use the latter but if one is in early stages of learning the art of knife throwing, it is advisable to use either of the first two knives because of their shorter learning curve.
How to Grip a Throwing Knife?
Before holding the knife, always remember that the heavier part of knife needs to be thrown first. So, if you are using a blade-heavy knife, the right way of holding is by the handle so that the blade (heavier part) gets thrown first. Similarly, for handle-heavy knives, the correct method to hold the knife is by the blade in order for the handle (heavier part) to be released first.
Perhaps the most common way of holding a knife is where the thumb is on the side of knife and the release of knife makes blade vertical to the target. Although this method is commonly used as it comes very naturally to beginners, this might necessarily not be the right approach as the thumb, at the time of release, might tremble resulting in an off-target throw. A better way to hold the knife is to place the index, middle and ring fingers on the very centre of handle / blade and thumb on the centre of other side of handle / blade. Using this approach would leave the little finger just hanging off in the air from the end. Look at the below images for visual clarification of the positions of your fingers and thumb:
Throwing Knives the Right Way!
Having to select the most appropriate knife and learning the right way to hold a knife is just the start. The most vital stage of throwing knife is to actually throw it in a manner that takes into account factors such as distance to target, body position, speed of throw, release point and the follow through.
Follow the below step by step guide for a successful throw:
- First, take five steps away from the target, draw a line there and stand a step behind the line.
- Take a further step behind at an angle of 45 degrees to your left, so that your weaker shoulder (left, in case you are right-handed) faces the target (look at the image below for visual clarity). Now, the line should be two steps from you which should give you all the momentum and force you need to throw the knife with maximum power.
- Once you are all set to throw, step towards the throw line with your front foot and throw the knife as hard as you can. Imagine yourself playing baseball and throw the knife just as would you pitch the baseball with all power of your hand (look at the image below for visual clarity).
- The most important stage of a successful throw is where you release the knife, called the release point, which should ideally be when your arm is fully extended towards the target, i.e. when the arm is straight in front of you. Once your arm gets into the release position, just open your hand and let go of the knife naturally. During my early days of knife throwing, this is the step where I struggled the most as releasing the knife a second quicker or later from the ideal moment caused my knife to swirl in the air more or less than needed.
- The last step to complete a successful throw, follow through of your hand and body, is as important as previous steps. By the time you are done with the throw, both your body and hand would be in a slightly inclined forward position. All you need to do now is to let the weight of your body transfer easily forward and let this transfer of movement stop in a gradual manner rather than coming to a halt abruptly (look at the images below for visual clarity). This marks the end of your throw.
When I first started knife throwing, I always wanted to do it perfectly without any modifications to what I had watched online because I thought that changing technique even slightly would result in undesirable results.. However, I realized that I could modify my technique in terms of speed or positioning of knife gradually to improve my throw.
Therefore, no matter how much articles you read or watch countless videos to learn the art of knife throwing, there is no substitute of self practice. Also, knife throwing is an art that each person develops himself, amending his technique over the period albeit following the above basic guidelines. So, the more you practice, the better your throws will get as you will be able to self-adjust your speed, body positioning, distance to target and grip of knife to make this sport work better for you.
What is the best steel for your knife?
What is the best steel for your knife? This is a question that can only be answered by you because you know what the main purpose of your knife is. Do you want a blade that stays has a sharp edge? Are a blade that has a high resistance to corrosion? What about a blade that is so strong that it can be used for prying?
There are so many different steel alloys that are used to make knives. The choice of alloy by the manufacturer is determined by their reflection of their intention of that knife’s purpose. A tactical knife will not normally use the same kind of steel as a hunting knife. Therefore the purpose/type of knife will determine what steel should be used to make the blade of your knife.
Properties of Steel:
When choosing a steel alloy manufactures typically consider the following properties of the steel they plan to use:
- Ability to hold an edge- The ability to hold an edge is the duration of time the knife can be used before it needs to be sharpened again. All knives will dull with use but some will dull faster than other’s. Most times a knife that is more difficult to sharpen will hold an edge longer.
- Ability to take an edge-The ability to take an edge is the basically what people consider to be how sharp a knife can be. The blade design and angle of the blade grind can alter the perceived sharpness of the knife.
- Strength-Strength describes the flexibility of a metal to being permanently deformed when cutting tough objects.
- Toughness-Toughness, on the other hand, describes the metal’s ability to resist chipping and cracking from impacts.
- Corrosion Resistance-Corrosion resistance is simply the ability of the metal to resist corrosion.
A good rule of thumb, while not absolute, is that toughness and strength tend to be inversely proportional. This means that the stronger the steel, the more likely it will be to crack or chip. Likewise, a very tough steel will not be very strong.
Types of Steels
Most knife manufacturers are using several different types of steels in their production but most of them fall into three classes of steel which are: tool steel, stainless steel or carbon steel. There are many different alloys of steel but these are the ones that are mainly used in the knife industry.
Tool Steel is a more general steel alloy that ranges from average quality to very good quality. Even though it is not as popular as the other two types it is still used to make many different types of knives.
Stainless steel is the most popular steel used in the knife industry. It has a good resistance to corrosions because of its inclusion of chromium. In normal circumstance stainless steel will not corrode or rust but in harsh conditions there is a possibility. Some examples of stainless steel alloys are 420, 440, AUS-6, AUS-8, ATS-34 and others.
Carbon steel has the highest durability compared to the other two alloys. They are easy to sharpen and are very tough. The only downside to carbon blades is that they are not resistant to corrosion unlike stainless steel.
In conclusion it can be said that best steel for your knife depends on what and in which conditions you want to use it in. Examine the knife reviews and determine which knife will meet your demands.
10 BS Myths about Knives that Everyone Thinks are True
The knife is one of the oldest tools used by humanity so it should come as no surprise that there are almost as many myths about knives as there are types of knives. These myths are not just some old folk tales told around a camp fire but myths that are actually thought to be true in the present day time. There are myths about how to care for knives and myths about how to use them. They all have something that sticks in the mind or they would not have lasted long enough to become myths. Any buyer looking to purchase knives should know why these myths are false so that you can make wise buying decisions when purchasing your very own knife.
Myth 1: Some Knives don’t need to be sharpened
Some manufacturers give absurd claims that their knives do not need to be sharpened. On the surface, it sounds great, but it is only a slight resemblance to the actuality. Their claims are based on the fact that all their knives are serrated, which means even when they get dull, they can still rip in lieu of cutting cleanly. If you want the best performance from your knife, like when it was new, then you should sharpen your knife once in a while. Otherwise, while they will still be able to be used, they will not cut the same way as when they were right out of the box.
Myth 2: A Sharp Knife is safer than a dull one
This myth does have some logic behind it; however, it still does not hold true. When you get injured by a knife, it means you got cut buy it in some form or another. Thinking like this would mean that knife that does not cut well is less likely to injure the user. The problem with this thinking is that dull knives require more force to actually complete the cutting action, which in turn makes the user more likely to lose control and accidentally injure themselves because the knife went somewhere it should not have gone.
Myth 3: Harder Blades Stay Sharp Longer
While hardness definitely is a factor in how sharp an edge a blade can hold, there is thing as a blade being too hard. The problem is that blades that are only hard also are brittle and hence prone to breaking. Brittle blades can easily chip, losing their original edge and so become jagged and dull. If your blade will last long then it needs to be resilient. Hardness alone is not enough.
Myth 4: Giving a Knife as a Gift Severs Relationships
This is one of the oldest and dumbest knife myths that are still around. The idea behind this thinking is that because a knife is a cutting implement, giving one to someone means that the giver is “cutting” the ties that bind people (them) together. Needless to say, there is no grain of truth to this myth; It is a perfect example of the kind of magical thinking that symbols can have a direct effect in the real world.
Myth 5: Stainless steel does not rust or stain
This is a very common misunderstanding among people in general, not just the knife fanatics. Stainless steel is more resistant to corrosion other steels that have more carbon, but despite its name, stainless steel is not 100 percent rust or stain-proof. Stainless steel like any other metal must still be properly cared for to prevent corrosion, especially after exposure to water.
Myth 6: A higher price always means a better knife
This is false not only in regards but with many other products and services in the market. In general a more expensive knife will you are getting a better knife ,but that is not always going to happen. For example, people say that S30V steel is better than its recent revision, S35VN but according to the knife properties that is simply not true. Also, there are always knives that provide you with a great value while still being affordable (like the Boker Kalashnikov) and function similarly to more expensive knives.
Myth 7: No sparks means no sharpening
This myth probably stems from seeing people sharpen their knives on the classic grinder. Yes, sparks fly when someone is grinding out nicks on a damaged blade, but that does not mean it is a requirement for knife sharpeners to shoot out sparks. In fact, it can be a considered a bad sign as sparks are a sure sign of blade damage. Each spark that flies out of the sharpener represents a tiny fraction of the blade being ground away and the heat produced can also take the temper off the steel.
Myth 8: A knife ain’t nothing against a gun
Don’t be so sure about that, especially when you’re talking about a knife’s capabilities! Mythbusters actually did a segment on this exact myth. The concept behind the myth, In Adam Savage’s words, is that if your rival brings a knife to a gun fight, you have nothing to worry about because your gun is going to win. However, they found out that a knife is actually a very respectable weapon when it comes to fighting in close range. From their testing, they discovered that a knife to be a useful tool if you are within 16 feet of your opponent.
Myth 9:A dull knife has a worn away edge
Contrary to popular belief, when a knife “loses its edge,” the edge has not worn away but actually folded onto itself. This is because the edge is not as defining as you might think but instead this occurs at the microscopic level.
Myth 10: Knives Are Dulled by Food, Not Cutting Boards
The idea behind this myth is that since knives are cutting through the food it is what dulls them. While it might sound logical, this is simply not true. The cutting board is what stops the knife after the slice, and a hard board can prove far more damaging to the knife than any food. Plastics boards are the best, while hard acrylic and stone are most likely to damage the blade.
Wood is good for reducing the damage to knife edges, but it can be difficult to sterilize. One way to think about it is to consider the scoring seen on a wide variety of cutting boards. If the board is not marked, all your energy that would have gone into scoring the board goes back into the edge, hence dulling the knife. This is one of the reasons granite cutting boards should be reserved for decoration rather than for actual use.